by YSL. Her first creation for YSL was Paris.
With IFF’s Sophie Labbé’s input, a fresh
blackberry top note leads into the heart of
Damascus rose and violet, which are woven
with sandalwood, patchouli, vetivert and
musk into a contemporary “vinyl” accord—
one that evokes metal gloss and varnish
Parisienne has the potential to become
a classic if it is supported and pushed,
and the dominance of various rose notes
of these recent launches benefitted from
new combinations that resulted in modern
interpretations of the rich natural rose
derivatives for more diffusion and freshness.
Floral romance pervades, but new twists
with peppercorn, lavender, watermelon,
pomegranate and kiwi give fresh nuances to
the rich comfort of rose.
An Oriental Twist
Launches of orientals have remained
consistent, but new twists with floral spices
on rich oriental bases definitely pique
consumer interest. One new impact fragrance
that has classic potential, Idole d’Armani is a
blend of spices and florals to create sensual
warmth and a wonderful wafting aura of
intrigue. It has a melding quality and heart.
If Armani continues to promote this well, it
should expect to see good repeat sales.
Floral accounted for nearly 60% of the
2009 fragrance launches. What will be the
leading notes in 2010? Will the economic
mood push consumers to simplistic and
purer fragrances? Will there be a return to
clean and fresh, to the comfort of the classic
formula types that have been given subtle
twists with new ingredients? And how many
of these fragrance launches will find their
way into consumers’ collective hearts?
Perfumers are challenged more than
ever with limited time lines to produce
uniqueness, and perfume ingredient suppliers
must continually provide new materials
to provide the nuances that translate into
memorable skin identity.
The fragrance segment of the beauty
industry has helped to develop a fickle
consumer who is always looking for
something new. But there will always be
classic fragrances, and consumers will return
to the comfort and security of wearing them.
Why? Because fragrance has the ability to
uplift and make them feel good. It is up to
brand owners and suppliers to continue and
push the boundaries of the creativity that went
into the identity, juice and packaging. n GCI
NANcy c. HAydeN is a chemist and a pharmacist with more than 30 years in the fragrance industry. She worked as a nose for Jovan from the company’s beginnings and as fragrance director for Jovan Beecham until 1988. Currently, she is a consultant to the
fragrance and cosmetics industries.
Some people lose sleep worrying about wrinkles.
the result of chemistry
and natural curiosity.
At Lipo®, we call them scientists®.
Nobody knows where the next big ingredient is going to come from. But at Lipo,
we never stop looking for it. So along with formulating technologies and platforms
that help companies use it, our scientists go to great lengths—and depths—to
find the next big idea in skincare, haircare and color cosmetics. After all, beauty may
be only skin deep, but at Lipo we dare to look beneath the surface.
BEAUTY IS OUR SCIENCE®