n With recently increased regulation and
the nature of the formulas themselves,
sunscreens can require complicated
product development parameters.
n Having a strong base knowledge of
how sunscreens provide UV protection,
what ingredients are available to use
and how those ingredients work,
and how the FDA is regulating those
ingredients is important for product
developers, as well as brand owners
n Legislation continues to change for
sunscreen, as do new ingredient
innovations and product breakthroughs,
so continue to keep an eye out for
sun care-related updates.
IMPACT POINTS T eaching consumers about sun protection, the damage caused to the skin by UV rays and what o look for in quality right sun care products are some of the
most essential tasks faced by the beauty
industry. And given the recent U.S. Food
and Drug Administration (FDA) changes
to sunscreen regulation, a review of
sunscreens is in order.
It is well-known that UV exposure involves
free radicals and leads to various types of
damage at the level of the skin. Indeed,
in the skin, free radicals induced by UV
radiation cause damage to DNA and
proteins, leading to the premature aging
of the skin cells. When exposed to UV
radiation, the skin undergoes alterations
resulting in inflammation, photoaging
and various skin disorders. Typical signs
With recent U.S. Food and Drug Administration
changes to sunscreen legislation, a review of
sunscreens is in order.
of photoaging include wrinkling, loss of
elasticity, increased skin fragility and slower
wound healing. 1
As such, sun protection is key. Before
delving into the various types of sunscreens
and their ingredients, three essential
concepts should be emphasized.
1. A sunscreen product is meant to
remain on the surface of the stratum
corneum to ensure efficacy.
2. Numbers can be misleading. For
example, while an SPF 30 blocks about
97% of the sun’s damaging rays, SPF
50 will only block one additional
3. Most consumers do not apply
sunscreen at the concentration tested
by the FDA, meaning emphasizing
how to apply sun care is key. The
correct amount of product to use is a
teaspoon for the face and a shot glass
for the body. 2 Repeated application
also is a must.
SUN CARE, INGREDIENTS, REGULATIONS
Editor’s note: This is an edited version of the article “Sunscreens for Today’s Clients” that originally
ran in the January 2014 issue of Skin Inc. magazine. Reprinted with permission. All rights reserved.
for Today’s Consumers
BY RACHEL AMETSITSI, ADA POLLA AND ANNE POUILLOT