According to a recent analysis from NPD Group’s ( www.npd.com)
Jennifer Famiano, brands have an opportunity to make skin care
more giftable and approachable by creating sets. NPD surveyed U.S.
women and reported that 25% said they prefer to purchase skin care
as a regimen or kit. Indeed, NPD’s own data (see Page 11) found that
skin care sets actually outsold fragrance sets during some weeks of
the 2017 holiday season. By packaging a cleanser, moisturizer and
other products in a pleasing package, skin care could become a
formidable holiday beauty segment, particularly as 14% of prestige
skin care is sold in December alone.
Connected devices have an immense impact on beauty
innovation, from selfie-ready makeup to virtual hair
color try-ons, but all those screens may have a downside
when it comes to skin safety. Like anti-pollution actives
before them, blue light defense actives offer a response to
According to data cited by DSM, 40% of blue light
exposure comes from the sun, while 60% comes from
high energy visible (HEV) light emitted by electronic
devices like smart phones, computer screens and
And, while suppliers have ramped up solutions, the
market features few products claiming blue light defense.
One rare example is Murad’s City Skin Age Defense
Broad Spectrum SPF 50 PA++++. Another is Börlind’s
antioxidant 3 in 1 Face Oil, which reportedly filters out
blue light with a marigold plant extract. The formulation
also includes Inca omega oil, Kahai oil and Himalayan
cherry oil. These examples point to an emerging
opportunity for marketers and formulators.
DSM currently offers Pepha-Age, which imparts UV
and blue light protection and reportedly minimizes the
appearance of aging after exposure. The ingredient is
sourced from sustainable freshwater microalgae.
The company has also developed an online Sunscreen
Optimizer, a virtual in-silico lab that can help formulators
to select the optimum UV filters for their desired SPF and
UVA performance. The tool notably allows formulators
to determine whether their formulations allow them to
extend protection to the blue light spectrum as well.
Sederma has developed a trio of plant cell culture
extracts, Citystem, that defend against HEV by reducing
the generation of radical oxygen species, oxidative attacks
and pro-inflammatory mediator release. The ingredient
refines the skin grain and reduces the appearance of
blackheads, according to the company.
Silab’s Oxygeskin (INCI: Tropaeolum Majus Extract),
meanwhile, counteracts “digital pollution” and boosts
skin radiance. The ingredient was tested on the skin of
Caucasian and Asian volunteers who were exposed to
pollution for a minimum of 10 years. Formulated at
2.5% in an emulsion, the ingredient reportedly decreased
transepidermal water loss by 11%, reduced crow’s feet
wrinkles by 16.4% and increased the uniformity of the
skin by 28.9%.
Rahn has produced a trio of blue light defense
cosmetic actives, including Celligent, which provides
UV/HEV protection for DNA, cells and stem cells, and
rapid regeneration of UV-damaged skin; Myramaze,
a cell membrane guard for stressed, fragile skin; and
Proteolea, a “cellular recycling manager” that claims a
six-year skin rejuvenation effect in four weeks.
Finally, Alban Muller’s Cytokalmine ER (INCI: Maltitol
(and) Punica Granatum Extract) reportedly reduces
the secretion of inflammatory cytokines and decreases
the production of ROS, which are responsible for skin
inflammation associated with blue light exposure. n
Emerging Innovation: Blue Light Defense