is headquartered in Mauritius’ BioPark
and is developing new cosmetics
ingredients from the local flora.
Brands will want to keep an eye on
the next emerging African nations
as well. Martins noted, “In Africa,
Nigeria has to be considered as a new
opportunity. This market is stimulated
by a young and fashion-conscious
middle class population, and the
demand for beauty, including skin
care, is huge.”
No matter which emerging market
a brand enters, researching and truly
understanding the end-user and
keeping her as the primary focus
will pay off in the long run. Zhang
explained, “The beauty market is
idea-driven. You can carry on with the
same global architecture of your idea,
but you need to bring this idea into
the local market with relevance. You
need to make sure to offer the ideas
differently for each market.” n
In Africa, Bright Plus is a regional best-seller for
Clarins, due to its success in brightening the
complexion, while preventing and treating hyperpigmentation, dark spots and dull skin.
LISA DOYLE was formerly the
associate editor of Global Cosmetic
Industry and is a freelance writer in the
Chicago area. Her work has also appeared
in Skin Inc., Salon Today, Modern Salon,
Master Barber and Writer’s Digest.
By 2020, the swiftly emerging middle classes in
China and India will propel Asia Pacific into the top
spot among global color cosmetics markets.
EMERGING MARKETS LOOK
One thing many emerging countries have in common? Youth. On
average, they have a higher population of young people, compared
to mature markets. Often, this translates to a market more interested
in buying licensed products featuring celebrities and characters.
Korean celebrities in particular are finding that licensed skin care
has been a natural way for them to build their own brand. Actress
Lee Young-ae launched her Lyanature organic skin care line in
2015, and has expanded to bath and shower products, a baby line,
accessories and multiple retail outlets in upscale Seoul neighborhoods.
Likewise, Ji-won Ha’s new J.One line of moisturizers and masks has
been appealing to her fans in her home country, and is now attracting
new devotees in the United States via Sephora and QVC.
According to Euromonitor’s Color Cosmetics Path to Purchase
Beauty Survey, the eye makeup category in Thailand, China, Colombia, India and the Middle East are the most receptive to licensing.
We’ll keep a close watch on which celebrities come aboard. n
Ji-won Ha’s new J.One line of
moisturizers and masks has
been appealing to her fans in
her home country, and is now
attracting new devotees in the
U.S. via Sephora and QVC.
Avon Naturals Ayurvedic Whitening
Cream, Ayurvedic Whitening 3-in- 1
Cleanser and Herbal Bleach.
Local Needs and
The whitening trend of Asia is
comparable to the brightening trend
in Africa—and a savvy brand will
capitalize on both.
“Our objective is to take into account
cultural references while creating
unique brand experiences,” said
Martins. “All of our best-sellers in
emerging markets have been created to
adjust to customers’ habits and needs,
while still offering the best natural
plant extracts, a fantastic sensory
In Africa, Bright Plus is a regional
best-seller for Clarins, due to its
success in brightening the complexion,
while preventing and treating
hyperpigmentation, dark spots and
In addition to brands conscientiously
entering the market, the African
market is building from within.
Notably, indigenous crops are making
their way into beauty on a larger scale.
Argan oil, for instance, has benefited
the Moroccan economy and global
consumers for years, and now South
Africa is following suit with locally
grown rooibos in skin care.
Rooibos’ zinc and alpha hydroxy
acids and antioxidant properties make
it a perfect addition to moisturizers and
cleansers—in fact, Mintel states that
South Africa claims 56% of the rooibos
soap launches from the past five years.
Elsewhere, firms such as Biolabex
are leveraging indigenous ingredients
for 21st century innovation. Biolabex