in-cosmetics Global Recap:
Skin & Sun
Sensitive skin impacts more than half of the world’s
population, according to figures presented by Evonik at in-cosmetics Global. For instance, 51% of American women
and the same portion of Indian women claim to have
sensitive skin, compared to 60% of French women. In
addition, men comprise a significant portion of those
with sensitive skin.
Skin sensitivity can be impacted by environmental
pollution, sun, wind, shaving and cleansing, social
and psychological stress, and temperature variations,
which can trigger redness, irritations, dryness, and stinging,
itching and burning sensations.
To address these issues, Evonik has introduced Tego Pep
4-Comfort, a tetrapeptide that “selectively relieves typical
symptoms of sensitive skin” and “counteracts overreactions
triggered by repeated contact or external irritants such as
heat.” In one shaving study, the ingredient reduced redness
and itching by 70% and burning by 56%.
Tego Pep 4-Comfort can be applied at levels of about 2–4%
in aftershaves, creams and lotions, sunscreen products,
after-sun products and cosmetic products for daily care
regimens, particularly for sensitive skin.
Meanwhile, Mibelle has introduced SensAmone P5, a
biomimetic peptide based on a sea aneomone protein that
can immediately comfort sensitive skin, according to the
company, while minimizing the skin’s response to stress
and reducing the itching sensation of sensitive skin. The
ingredient can be applied to sensitive skin care, neurocos-metics and comforting formulations.
Lipotrue introduced Sirtalice, which induces a V-lifting
reshape on the face in 30 minutes, with long-lasting efficacy,
while also providing a recharging cooling blast to the
skin. The ingredient is aimed at consumers with on-the-go
lifestyles, primarily in urban centers.
The company also launched Pauseîl, “a retreat for your
skin,” which boosts radiance by 40% in seven days, seals the
skin barrier and boosts hydration.
Merck presented its RonaCare RenouMeris sustainable
anti-aging marine-derived active ingredient, which
supports collagen formation and reduces the appearance
of wrinkles. The company’s liquid RonaCare Pristine
Bright reportedly boosts the appearance of lighter skin and
minimizes the appearance of age spots.
Innovation Under the Sun
New and unique sun care innovations are always front-of-mind at in-cosmetics. This year, Hallstar was awarded the
2017 Global in-cosmetics Innovation Silver Prize for its anti-aging ingredient, Micah.
The functional ingredient “halts the photo-aging process
before it starts,” according to Robert Hu, vice president
of R&D. He added, “Independent clinical research shows
that Micah … prevents 100% of free radicals, ROS,
inflammation, and DNA damage from UVA and visible light,
at a use level of only 0.2%.”
Lucas Meyer Cosmetics/IFF presented Melinoil, an oil-
soluble skin photoprotector that can be applied in anti-
aging, anti-wrinkle, hair care, sensitive skin, sunless tanning,
pre-sun and other sun care products.
The China-compliant a-MSH biomimetic peptide (INCI:
Isopropyl Palmitate (and) Lecithin (and) Water (and) Acetyl
Hexapeptide- 1) reportedly strengthens the natural skin
photoprotection, enhances skin pigmentation (by 54%),
reduces skin redness and soothes sun-damaged skin, and
limits skin photoaging and premature aging.
The three-ingredients-in-one format of the product allows
for more efficient formulas, as well as multifunctionality,
according to Lucas Meyer/IFF.
Sonneborne presented Shea XP, an active base emollient
that improves trans-epidermal water loss performance and
skin protection, in addition to anti-inflammatory and anti-aging activity.
Shea XP can be formulated into an array of applications,
including skin care creams, lotions, ointments, balms
and body butters, sensitive skin applications and color
cosmetics. According to the supplier, “Shea XP meets the
OTC monograph as a skin protectant, allowing for a silkier
skin feel in topical ointments.” n