INGREDIENTS & CLAIMS
The recent in-cosmetics Paris presented innovations from 784
exhibitors. GCI presents a selection of the unique ingredients on
display, signalling future performance and claims breakthroughs
ahead for the cosmetic and personal care industry.
AkzoNobel’s Amphor Edge polymer (INCI: Octylacrylamide/
Acrylates/Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer) provides
the stiffness and high humidity resistance of the existing Amphor
polymer, but also offers improved long-lasting hold, durability and
Angus’ AMP-Ultra PC can be applied to hair sprays and gels to
impart curl resistance in high humiditiy. The hypoallergenic material
can improve emulsion stability in mascaras and other eye products.
Ashland Specialty Ingredients’ Advantage 2VC-P polymer (INCI:
not available) is an anionic film-forming technology, which functions
as a hair fixative.
in-cosmetics Innovation Roundup
leaving a non-tacky skin feel; Mirasil Cetyl DM (INCI: Cetyl
Dimethicone) is a liquid silicone wax compatible with cosmetic
ingredients, which leaves a durable velvet touch on the skin; and
Mirasil PEG 12 DM (INCI: PEG- 12 Dimethicone) is a versatile
silicone surfactant, which offers multiple benefits, such as foam
stabilization, a light conditioning effect and silky feel.
Active Concepts’ Leucidal Liquid Complete (INCI: Leuconostoc/
Radish Root Ferment Filtrate & Lactobacillus & Cocos Nucifera
(Coconut) Fruit Extract) offers broad spectrum antimicrobial
protection, providing moisturization and conditioning properties,
while preventing the growth of bacteria.
Ashland Specialty Ingredients’ Optiphen DLP preservative (INCI:
not available) provides antifungal-boosting properties at lower use
levels and full protection at high use levels.
The company also introduced Leucidal SF Complete (INCI:
Lactobacillus Ferment & Lactobacillus & Cocos Nucifera (Coconut)
Fruit Extract), which is a salicylate-free approach to broad-spectrum
Dr. Straetmans’ Verstatil MPC allows formulators to work with
low levels of phenoxyethanol, while achieving a safe, reliable and
economic preservation. The company is also launching Verstatil
synacid (INCI: not available), a system not only efficient against
standard germs, but also exhibiting proven efficacy against other
problematic microorganisms and resistant house germs.
Vertellus’ Freshstat (INCI: Cetylpyridinium Chloride [CPC])
is a deodorizing agent and preservative based on CPC. Ample
ingestion data exists for CPC due to its use in oral care. The material
is positioned to allay NGO chemical fears and comply with retailer
standards, according to the company. Freshstat’s deodorizing and
preservative activity provides efficacy without destabilizing formulas.
Available in liquid form, the colorless, odorless and biodegradable
material can be used in low dosage rages in products such as creams,
makeup remover, deodorants, rinse-off conditioners, bar soaps,
shampoos and body washes. The ingredient works in a broad pH
range, from 4 to 10.
Skin Care for Every Age
Bayer HealthCare Division Serdex
has launched Madecassoside (INCI:
Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract) for
patients with atopy-prone, sensitive
or mature skin to help with chronic
inflammation and to care for dry skin.
Croda Personal Care’s Prolevis
(INCI: Aqua (and) Hydrolyzed
Vegetable Protein) helps provide
instant skin-smoothing of visible
surface wrinkles and imperfections.
Zen (INCI: not available)
is a microalgae blend
that helps restore the
DSM Personal Care’s new range of Tilmar polymers help change
hair care routines. The range consists of: Polyquaternium- 7,
Polyquaternium- 6 and Polyquaternium- 22.
Lucas Meyer Cosmetics’ Defenscalp (INCI: Water (and) Epilobium
Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract) helps decrease sebum
production on scalp, reduces the appearance of dandruff flakes and
soothes scalp irritation.
Evonik’s TEGO Cosmo C 100 is a conditioning agent applicable to
hair sprays and conditioners appropriate for Caucasian bleached and
ethnic relaxed hair. The material reduces breakage and rebuilds inner
hair structure. In Asian straightened hair, the ingredient protects
against heat stress and protects inner hair structure.
Bluestar Silicones presented its Mirasil range for the beauty and
personal care markets. Mirasil Balance (INCI: Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1
Dimethicone) is an emulsifier for water-in-oil and water-silicone
emulsions; Mirasil Caprylyl TSO (INCI: Caprylyl Methicone) is an